Eleaf Coils GS Air 2 Atomizer (14mm) 0.7Ohm

Overview

The Eleaf Coils GS Air 2 Atomizer (14mm) 0.7Ohm by Eleaf in GS Air 2 0.7 Ohm at 0mg. Free UK delivery over £20, same-day dispatch on weekday orders before 4pm.

Eleaf GS Air 2 0.7Ω Coil: What You Are Buying

The Eleaf GS Air 2 atomizer coil in 0.7Ω is a replacement coil head for the GS Air 2 tank, the 14mm-diameter, 2ml refillable tank that Eleaf has supplied with several of its starter kits and compact box devices. Strictly speaking, what you are buying here is the consumable heart of the tank: a small metal-cased unit holding a length of resistance wire wrapped around an absorbent cotton wick. It screws into the base of the tank, draws e-liquid in through small wicking holes, and heats that liquid when you press the fire button on your device. Everything else in the tank, the glass, the metal sleeve, the drip tip, the base and the airflow ring, is reusable. The coil is the part that wears out, which is why it is sold on its own.

The two numbers in the product name matter. 14mm refers to the outer diameter of the tank the coil belongs to, which is a slim format that sits flush on small pen-style and compact box devices without overhanging the edges. 0.7Ω is the electrical resistance of the coil at room temperature. Resistance controls how much current flows through the wire at a given voltage, and therefore how quickly and how strongly the coil heats. A lower figure means a hotter, more vapour-heavy hit at the same voltage; a higher figure means a cooler, more restrained one. At 0.7Ω this coil sits in the sub-ohm range, but at the low end of it, which is why it behaves more like a general-purpose coil than a cloud-chasing one.

This page walks through what to expect in practice: compatibility, power settings, flavour, e-liquid and nicotine choice, fitting and priming, how long a coil should last, what to do when something goes wrong, and how it stacks up against other options. It is written for UK vapers, including the many people who have moved from single-use vapes to refillable kits and now need to understand consumables for the first time.

• Part type: replacement atomizer coil head for the Eleaf GS Air 2 tank
• Nominal resistance: 0.7Ω, as stated in the product title
• Tank diameter: 14mm
• Tank capacity: 2ml, which matches the UK limit for refillable tanks
• Typical operating range: low to moderate wattage, roughly 10W to 25W, but always follow the range printed on your pack
• Style of vape: a tight-to-medium draw suited to mouth-to-lung and relaxed direct-to-lung use

Note: figures on this page describe typical behaviour for this class of coil. Where your pack or Eleaf's printed guidance says something different, the pack wins.

Compatibility: Will It Fit Your Device?

This coil is designed for the Eleaf GS Air 2 atomizer. That tank screws onto a standard 510 connector, which is why it has appeared on a number of Eleaf kits, and you will also find it on third-party devices that accept 510-threaded tanks. The coil itself, however, does not attach to the device. It threads into the base of the tank, so the question you actually need to answer is whether the tank on your desk is a GS Air 2 or something that looks similar.

That distinction is worth taking seriously. Eleaf has made several tanks in the GS Air family over the years, and while the names are close, the coil heads are not always interchangeable between them. Differences in thread size, height and wick design can mean a coil that screws in but seals poorly, which is a recipe for leaks, gurgling and dry hits. Do not assume a coil fits because the box says GS Air; confirm that it says GS Air 2.

A quick way to check before you buy:

• Unscrew the base of your tank and remove the old coil. Most GS Air coils carry a marking on the metal shell, such as a resistance value or the GS Air name.
• Compare the markings, shape and size of the old coil with the product photos on this page.
• Check the tank itself. The GS Air 2 is a 14mm tank with a 2ml capacity and a side-fill or top-fill design, depending on version.
• Check your device's specifications. Make sure it can fire a 0.7Ω load, which almost every regulated device on sale in the UK can do. Variable wattage devices should offer a range covering at least 10W to 25W.

Be careful with mechanical or unregulated devices. A 0.7Ω coil on an unregulated setup draws a high current directly from the cell, and the arithmetic changes depending on the battery's charge. If you are using anything other than a regulated device with built-in protections, you should already understand Ohm's law and battery limits before choosing a coil. If you are not sure, a regulated starter kit is the safer route.

If you are unsure about compatibility, send us the name of your kit or a photo of the old coil before you order. It takes less time than returning the wrong part, and it keeps the replacement process simple.

Performance and Vapour Delivery

At 0.7Ω, the GS Air 2 coil is a relaxed performer. It is not designed to push huge volumes of vapour, and it is not designed to be vaped with wide-open airflow. Instead it sits in the practical middle: enough power to produce a satisfying, warm hit on a small tank, with a draw that feels controlled rather than airy. For people who are used to the restricted airflow of disposables and pod devices, the sensation is familiar, with a bit more vapour and flavour on top.

The way the coil responds to power is worth understanding. Using the simple relationship between power, resistance and voltage, a device set to 15W is applying about 3.2V to a 0.7Ω coil, and one set to 20W is applying about 3.7V. Turn the dial to 25W and the voltage climbs to roughly 4.2V. Each step increases the temperature of the wire and the amount of liquid vaporised per second. Most users find the sweet spot somewhere in the middle of the range, around 15W to 20W, where flavour is full, the vapour is warm rather than hot, and the throat hit is not harsh.

You can get a rough sense of how much energy each puff uses. At 20W, a three-second puff delivers about 60 joules of energy to the coil. That number sounds abstract, but it explains several practical things. Longer puffs push more heat into the wick, which dries it out faster. Higher wattages drain the battery faster and use up e-liquid faster. And if the wick is not saturated, the energy has nowhere to go except into the cotton itself, which is how burnt tastes happen.

In practical terms, here is what to expect:

• Warm-up: a fraction of a second at normal settings, with no noticeable delay once the coil is primed.
• Vapour volume: moderate. More than a typical pod system, noticeably less than a dedicated large sub-ohm tank.
• Throat hit: noticeable with higher-strength freebase nicotine, smooth with lower strengths or nicotine salts at modest wattage.
• Consistency: steady across the life of the coil, with a gradual decline in flavour rather than a sudden failure.

Because the tank holds only 2ml, vapour production also depends on how quickly the wick refills between puffs. Thin, PG-heavy e-liquids refill quickly and are forgiving. Very thick, high-VG liquids refill more slowly and are more likely to dry out the cotton if you chain-vape, which we cover in the troubleshooting section below.

Flavour Profile and Coil Materials

A coil does not have a flavour of its own. What it does is decide how faithfully the flavour in your e-liquid reaches your palate. That comes down to three things: the wire, the wick and the temperature. GS Air coils of this type use Kanthal-style resistance wire, an iron-chromium-aluminium alloy that is widely used because it heats evenly, holds its shape and has a stable resistance. The wire is wrapped around a cotton wick, which carries liquid from the tank to the heating element. Together they produce a clean, neutral taste that lets fruit, menthol, dessert and tobacco profiles come through without a metallic edge.

Temperature is where you have the most control. At lower power, the coil runs cooler and the vapour feels gentler on the throat. Fruit and menthol profiles often taste crisper in this range, because the more volatile aromatic compounds are not being cooked off. At higher power, vapour becomes warmer and sweeter, and dessert and bakery flavours tend to gain richness. The trade-off is that very high settings can flatten delicate flavours and make the e-liquid taste thinner, because the coil is heating faster than the wick can resupply it.

Here is how different styles of e-liquid tend to behave with this coil:

• Fruit and ice: good clarity at 12W to 18W. Menthol and cooling agents stay bright and are not overwhelmed by heat.
• Tobacco: works well in the middle of the range. Higher power can bring out a harsher, toastier edge, so ease back if it starts to taste dry.
• Dessert, custard and bakery: richer at 18W to 22W, but these liquids contain more sweeteners, which can shorten coil life if you vape continuously.
• Dark, heavily sweetened blends: use the lower half of the range and expect to replace the coil a little sooner.

New coils also go through a short break-in period. During the first few puffs the cotton is still settling, and you may notice a faint papery or neutral taste. This usually clears after a tank or less. If it does not, the coil may not have been primed properly, which is covered in the fitting section.

Finally, remember that coils hold on to flavour. If you switch regularly between very different profiles, say a strong menthol one day and a creamy dessert the next, you will notice ghosting, where traces of the previous liquid linger. Many vapers keep a spare tank for each flavour family or simply replace the coil when they change profile completely. Because coils are low-cost consumables, the second approach is often the most practical.

Design and Build Quality

A coil head looks simple, but there is a fair amount of detail packed into a component that is only a couple of centimetres tall. The GS Air 2 coil has a metal shell that houses the wick and wire, a threaded base that screws into the tank, a central chimney through which vapour travels, and one or more wicking holes along the sides where e-liquid enters. A silicone O-ring around the base seals the coil against the tank so that e-liquid cannot leak through the bottom. At the bottom there is a positive pin that makes electrical contact with your device through the tank's 510 connector.

When your coil arrives, a quick visual check can save frustration later. Look for:

• The sealing ring: it should be present, seated properly and free of cuts or distortion.
• The wick: the cotton should sit neatly within the shell. It should not be crushed, frayed or sticking out of the chimney.
• The threads: these should be clean and burr-free, so the coil screws in smoothly without cross-threading.
• The pin: the central contact should be intact and not bent or pushed in.

In use, the coil should screw in by hand and stop firmly when it reaches the base. It does not need tools, and you should never use a wrench or pliers on the shell, because the walls are thin and can deform. Over-tightening is a common cause of leaks, because it can twist the O-ring out of position. Finger tight is all that is required.

The coil is built as a sealed, disposable unit, which keeps design simple and avoids the need to rewick or rebuild anything. That makes it a good fit for people who want a refillable vape without the learning curve of building coils by hand. The trade-off is that you cannot repair a coil that has failed; once it tastes burnt or the wick is spent, the only fix is to replace it.

Compared with the exposed coils and open cotton you see on rebuildable atomizers, a pre-made head like this one is more consistent from one coil to the next. Resistance values are tightly grouped, the wick density is controlled, and the performance you get from the second coil should be close to the first. For anyone who values predictability, that consistency is a large part of the appeal. It also means that if one coil from a pack behaves unusually, it is worth contacting us rather than assuming that is normal.

Power, Battery Pairing and Charging

The coil does not hold a charge, and it is not charged in itself, but its resistance has a direct effect on how your device's battery behaves. A 0.7Ω coil draws more current than a higher-resistance coil of the type found in pod kits, so it empties the battery faster per puff. It is useful to know what the numbers look like. Using the standard relationship between power, resistance and voltage, these are the approximate values for a 0.7Ω coil:

• 10W: about 2.6V and 3.8A
• 15W: about 3.2V and 4.6A
• 20W: about 3.7V and 5.3A
• 25W: about 4.2V and 6.0A

Those figures assume the device delivers the requested power accurately and the coil is at its nominal resistance. In real use, resistance rises slightly as the wire heats, and regulated devices adjust their output to compensate. The key point is that for most small devices, current stays within sensible limits across this wattage range. At 25W and above, a compact built-in battery will be working hard, so you may notice faster drain and a warmer device.

For battery life, a rough estimate helps. A 1500mAh cell at a nominal 3.7V stores about 5.5Wh, or about 20,000 joules. At 20W, with a three-second puff delivering about 60 joules, that works out to roughly 330 puffs in theory. Allowing for conversion losses and the cut-off point where the device stops firing, expect somewhere in the region of 250 to 300 puffs per charge at that setting. At 12W to 15W the same battery will last noticeably longer. If your device has a larger cell, scale accordingly.

Charging advice is simple, and it is worth following closely:

• Charge your device using the cable supplied with it, or a reputable replacement that matches the specification.
• Use a standard USB wall adapter or a computer port rather than a fast-charge brick unless the manufacturer says it is supported.
• Do not leave the device charging unattended for long periods, and never charge it on soft surfaces such as a bed or sofa.
• If you use removable 18650 or 21700 cells in a larger device, use authentic cells from a reputable seller with a continuous discharge rating well above the current you draw, and always carry them in a case, not loose in a pocket.

If the battery gets unusually hot, swells, or the device smells odd, stop using it, move it away from anything flammable and do not recharge it.

E-Liquid Choice and Nicotine Strength Guidance

Choosing the right e-liquid is the single biggest factor in how good this coil feels in use. In the UK, the rules shape what you can buy: refillable tanks are limited to 2ml, e-liquid bottles are limited to 10ml for nicotine-containing liquids, and the maximum nicotine strength is 20mg/ml (2%). That 20mg/ml cap was also the ceiling for single-use vapes before they were banned in June 2025, so it will be a familiar figure if you are switching from those. Shortfill bottles contain nicotine-free liquid in larger volumes, with space to add nicotine shots if you want a particular strength.

For a 0.7Ω coil on a small tank, a few principles work well:

• VG/PG ratio: 50/50 or 60/40 liquids wick quickly and are forgiving at this resistance. 70/30 works if you keep power moderate and do not chain-vape. Very high-VG liquids, such as 80/20 or above, are thick and more likely to starve the wick in a small coil.
• Freebase nicotine: typically sold at 3mg, 6mg, 12mg and 18mg. For this coil at 15W to 20W, 3mg to 6mg is comfortable for most people. If you smoked heavily or your previous setup was a high-strength disposable, 12mg may be a more realistic starting point, although the throat hit will be stronger.
• Nicotine salts: sold at 10mg and 20mg. Salts are smoother at high strengths, which makes them popular with ex-smokers and ex-disposable users. With this coil, 10mg salts at 12W to 18W is a sensible starting point. Twenty milligram salts are best kept for the lower end of the power range, because more vapour per puff means more nicotine per puff.

Nicotine strength is a concentration, not a dose. The amount you absorb depends on how much vapour you take in, how long you hold it and how often you puff. A higher wattage delivers more vapour per puff, so if you increase power you should usually reduce strength. Many people find themselves chain-vaping because the strength is too low, then wonder why their coil dies early. Matching strength to your need is cheaper in the long run than compensating with extra puffs.

If you have never used nicotine, choose 0mg. If you are trying to stop smoking, consider speaking to a local stop smoking service, which can help with a plan and, in many areas, support with products. Whatever your situation, vaping is intended for adults aged 18 or over, and it is not risk-free.

One practical tip: if you are tapering down, change one thing at a time. Reduce strength first, then adjust power, rather than altering both together, so you can tell what is making the difference.

Who This Coil Is For

The 0.7Ω GS Air 2 coil suits a particular kind of vaper. It is not aimed at hobbyists who build their own coils or at those chasing the largest clouds. It is aimed at the large middle group who want a straightforward, refillable setup that tastes good, lasts a reasonable time and does not demand tinkering.

It is a good match if you:

• Own an Eleaf kit or device that uses the GS Air 2 tank and need a like-for-like replacement
• Have moved from disposables or pods and want a bit more vapour and flavour while keeping a familiar, restricted draw
• Prefer a compact 14mm setup that is easy to carry
• Use 3mg to 12mg freebase or 10mg nicotine salt e-liquids
• Want a pre-made coil that works out of the box, with no building or wicking
• Vape at modest wattage, around 12W to 22W, and value battery life

It is probably not the right choice if you:

• Want large clouds and wide-open airflow, in which case a larger tank with a purpose-built sub-ohm coil is a better fit
• Use very thick, high-VG liquids almost exclusively, as they can struggle to wick through a small coil
• Own a different Eleaf tank and have not confirmed the coil is interchangeable
• Use a mechanical or unregulated device without a good understanding of battery safety
• Are under 18, or do not currently smoke or vape. Vaping is for adults who would otherwise use tobacco, not a lifestyle accessory

It is also a sensible choice for anyone who wants to keep spare coils at home. The GS Air 2 system is simple enough that a spare coil and a bottle of your usual e-liquid are all you need to get back to normal in five minutes if a coil fails mid-week. Many people in the UK are rethinking their routines following the disposable ban, and a refillable system with replaceable coils is one of the more practical alternatives. It also tends to cost less over time, which we look at in the value section below.

How to Fit and Prime the Coil

Fitting a coil is quick, but priming is the step people skip, and it is the step that most often decides whether the coil lasts or burns out in an afternoon. Priming means making sure the cotton is saturated before you fire the device for the first time. A dry wick plus heat is the classic route to a burnt taste, and a burnt coil cannot be recovered.

Follow these steps each time you change a coil:

• Switch off or lock the device. Remove the tank and empty any remaining e-liquid, so you do not spill it while you work.
• Unscrew the base. Remove the old coil by hand. If it is stiff, a gentle twist with a dry cloth gives you better grip. Do not use tools on the shell.
• Clean the threads. Wipe the base and glass area with a dry tissue, and check that the O-rings are in good shape. Replace them if they are cracked or flat.
• Screw in the new coil. Finger tight is enough. Stop when you feel firm resistance.
• Prime the wick. Put a few drops of e-liquid directly onto the exposed cotton through the wicking holes on the side of the coil. Do not flood the central chimney.
• Fill the tank. Leave a small air gap at the top, reassemble and screw the tank onto the device.
• Wait. Allow five to ten minutes for the cotton to absorb liquid. Thicker liquids need the longer end of that range.
• Take a few unpowered draws. Pull gently on the drip tip without firing to draw liquid through.
• Start low. Set the device to the bottom of its power range, take short two-second puffs, then increase gradually to your preferred setting.

If your device shows resistance on its screen, check that it reads close to 0.7Ω. A reading far from that value usually means the coil is not seated properly or the connection is dirty. Remove the tank, wipe the contact points and try again.

After fitting, you may notice some bubbling or slight gurgling in the first few puffs. That is air working its way through the wick and should settle quickly. If the coil spits or tastes sharp even after priming, stop, check the airflow ring and the fill level, and give the wick a few more minutes to absorb liquid.

Coil Lifespan and Maintenance

There is no single answer to how long a coil lasts, because the main factors depend on the user rather than the coil. As a general guide, a coil like this one lasts somewhere between one and three weeks for an average vaper, shorter for a heavy user and longer for someone who vapes lightly. A person using sweet e-liquids at higher power with long puffs will burn through coils faster than someone using a clear fruit liquid at 14W with short puffs.

What shortens coil life:

• Sweeteners. Sucralose and other sweeteners caramelise on the wire, forming a residue that dulls flavour and reduces output. Heavily sweetened dessert liquids are the main culprit.
• Chain-vaping. Quick successive puffs do not give the wick time to refill, so it scorches.
• High power. Running at the top of the range heats the wire harder and speeds up residue build-up.
• Low tank levels. Vaping with a nearly empty tank exposes the wick to air and heat.
• Dry burning. Firing the device with no liquid in the tank is the fastest way to destroy a coil.

What extends coil life:

• Prime properly every time, and wait before the first puff.
• Keep the tank at least a quarter full.
• Use short puffs and pause between them.
• Choose a VG/PG ratio your wick can handle, typically 50/50 to 70/30 for this coil.
• Stay in the lower to middle part of the wattage range.
• Rinse the tank with warm water between coils and let it dry fully before refilling.

Recognising the end of a coil is simple. Flavour fades, the vapour turns thin, the taste becomes burnt or acrid, or the coil begins to gurgle or leak despite correct fitting. Once the taste is burnt, there is no fix. Cleaning attempts, such as dry burning or rinsing, rarely restore the coil and often make it worse. Replace it and carry on.

A practical habit is to keep one spare coil at home and one in your bag. That removes the pressure of vaping on a failing coil just because you have nothing else to hand. It also helps you replace on schedule rather than waiting for a bad-tasting puff to tell you.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Most problems with a GS Air 2 coil come down to a handful of causes, and most can be fixed in under a minute. Work through the symptom that matches your situation.

• Burnt taste straight after fitting: the coil was probably not primed. Remove the tank, add a few more drops of e-liquid to the wicking holes, wait ten minutes and start again at low power. If the taste does not clear after a tank, replace the coil.
• Dry hits or crackling: the wick is not getting enough liquid. Lower the wattage, take shorter puffs, check the tank is not nearly empty, and consider switching to a thinner e-liquid, such as 50/50.
• Leaking from the base or airflow: check that the O-ring on the coil is seated and the tank base is screwed on evenly but not over-tightened. Overfilling the tank is another common cause, so leave a small gap at the top. Leaks can also occur when the tank is left on its side or exposed to rapid temperature changes, such as from a warm pocket into a cold car.
• Gurgling or spitting: this is usually excess liquid in the chimney. Remove the tank, blow gently through the drip tip with the coil end facing away from you or wipe the chimney with a tissue, and reassemble. Fresh coils sometimes gurgle for a few puffs.
• Weak vapour or flat flavour: the coil may have reached the end of its life, or residue has built up. If the coil is more than a couple of weeks old, replace it. If it is new, check the airflow ring and the fill level.
• Device says no atomizer, short circuit, or check atomizer: the coil is not making contact. Unscrew the tank, wipe the 510 connector and the coil pin with a dry cloth, check that the pin is not pushed in, and reconnect. If the message persists, try the tank on another compatible device to see whether the fault is with the tank, the coil or the device.
• Device reads the wrong resistance: a reading well above or below 0.7Ω can indicate a poor connection or a faulty coil. Reseat the coil and the tank, and replace the coil if the reading remains off.
• Sweet taste fades quickly: residue from sweeteners is the likely cause. Lower the power, switch to a less sweet liquid or replace the coil more often.

If you work through these steps and the fault persists, particularly if more than one coil from the same pack shows the same problem, get in touch with us. Include the batch details printed on the pack, a description of the symptom and, if possible, a photo. That gives us the best chance of resolving it quickly.

Value for Money and How It Compares

Coil heads are consumables, so the sensible way to judge value is cost per week of use rather than cost per unit. If one coil lasts an average of two weeks, a pack of several coils covers many weeks of vaping for a modest outlay. Add e-liquid, which is usually the larger recurring cost, and a refillable setup typically works out cheaper than buying single-use vapes regularly, which are no longer available to buy in the UK anyway. The initial cost of a kit is spread over many months of use.

It also helps to compare like with like. Here is how the GS Air 2 0.7Ω coil stacks up against some alternatives:

• Versus higher-resistance coils for the same tank, such as a 1.5Ω option: a 1.5Ω coil runs cooler, uses less battery and e-liquid, and suits high-strength nicotine salts or ex-smokers wanting a tight draw. The 0.7Ω coil gives warmer vapour, more flavour and a bit more volume. If your priority is battery life and economy, the higher-resistance coil may suit you better. If you want fuller flavour, 0.7Ω is the more satisfying option.
• Versus mesh pod coils from Vaporesso, Voopoo and similar: mesh coils generally provide a larger heating surface, which can improve flavour consistency and vapour output, but they sit in pod systems rather than a 14mm tank and are a different ecosystem. If you already own a GS Air 2 tank, buying this coil is cheaper than switching systems.
• Versus compact tanks such as the Aspire Nautilus family: Aspire's coils have a long track record and are widely available, and the Nautilus tank has its own adjustable airflow. They are a fair alternative if you are choosing a new tank, but they are not interchangeable with this coil. For a GS Air 2 owner, the Eleaf coil is simply the correct part.
• Versus third-party or unbranded replacement coils: compatible coils are sometimes cheaper, but quality and resistance accuracy vary. A genuine Eleaf coil is built to the tank's tolerances, which reduces the risk of leaks and inconsistent performance.
• Versus rebuildable atomizers: rebuildables cost less per coil in the long term and allow customisation, but they demand skill and time. For most people, a pre-made coil is the more practical choice.

On environmental responsibility, handle used coils sensibly. Coils contain metal and cotton and no battery, but they are still small waste items that should not be left lying around. Place used coils in a bag or container and take them to a local household waste recycling centre, or a retailer's collection point where available. Devices, batteries and chargers fall under waste electrical rules and must never go into household bins or general recycling, because lithium cells can start fires in bin lorries and sorting plants.

Overall, this is a modestly priced, no-fuss consumable that does exactly what it says. It will not transform a poor setup into a good one, but paired with the right e-liquid and sensible power settings, it delivers steady performance throughout its life, which is exactly what you want from a replacement part.