SMOK Rigel Kit 230W

Overview

The SMOK Rigel Kit 230W by Smok across 8 flavours at 0mg. Free UK delivery over £20, same-day dispatch on weekday orders before 4pm.

SMOK Rigel Kit 230W overview

The SMOK Rigel Kit 230W is a refillable, dual-battery box mod kit from Smok, a hardware brand that has been building vaping devices for well over a decade. It is aimed at the vaper who has outgrown pod kits and wants direct control over wattage, coil choice and airflow, rather than a sealed device that does one thing at one power level. The 230W in the name is the maximum output of the chipset. That figure is a ceiling, not a recommendation, and most people will spend the majority of their time somewhere between 40W and 100W, where the batteries last longer, the coils last longer and the vapour is easier on the throat.

A kit like this works very differently from the single-use devices that used to dominate UK shelves. Since 1 June 2025 the sale of disposable vapes has been banned in the UK, which has pushed many former disposable users towards refillable hardware. A mod kit is the logical next step if you want to keep vaping on a legal, reusable device and also want to cut the waste and the running cost that come with throwing a device away every few days.

The kit follows the standard Smok formula: a box mod body that takes two removable 18650 cells, paired with a sub-ohm tank that screws onto a 510 connection. Because the two halves are separate, you can upgrade or replace either one later. If the tank is damaged or you want a different style of vape, you can fit a different 510 tank. If the mod is ever retired, the tank can usually move to another device.

This page covers what to expect from the kit in everyday use: how it performs, how it handles flavour, how long the batteries last, what coils suit it, which nicotine strengths make sense, and where it fits against the competition. We have also included a frank section on who should not buy it, because a 230W dual-battery mod is overkill for some vapers and a poor match for others.

• Type: refillable box mod kit with sub-ohm tank
• Maximum output: 230W (as per the product name)
• Power source: two removable 18650 cells (sold separately from the kit in most UK listings, so check the contents on the product page)
• Connection: 510 thread, compatible with a wide range of tanks
• Intended user: intermediate to experienced vapers moving from pod kits or looking for more power and control

As with any specification sheet, treat the figures here as a guide and confirm the exact tank, coil and cell details on the product listing for the variant you choose, because Smok occasionally revises what ships in the box.

Performance and vapour production

Performance on a mod like this is defined by what you do with the wattage dial, not by a single headline number. A puff count is the metric you see on disposables, but it does not apply to a refillable kit, because the number of puffs depends on your wattage, your puff length, the coil resistance and how many times you refill. Instead, the useful way to think about the Rigel Kit 230W is in terms of power bands.

• 25W to 50W: a restricted, mouth-to-lung style. Cooler vapour, modest cloud, very economical on e-liquid and battery. Suits nicotine salts and tighter airflow.
• 50W to 90W: the comfortable middle of the range for most sub-ohm mesh coils. Warm vapour, good flavour, a clear step up from any pod kit.
• 90W to 150W: large, warm clouds and strong throat feel with a lower nicotine freebase liquid. Battery drain rises sharply here.
• 150W to 230W: the territory of cloud chasers and heavily modified setups. Coils burn through liquid quickly and run hot, and only specific low-resistance coils are built for it.

The chipset in the Rigel is designed to deliver power smoothly rather than in a harsh spike, and the firing response is quick enough that you do not notice a delay between pressing the button and the vapour arriving. Ramp-up is where cheaper chipsets show their limits, and where a established brand like Smok has had years to refine the behaviour. In everyday use you can expect consistent output across the length of a battery charge, with the usual caveat that the last 15 to 20 per cent of battery charge will feel a little weaker as the voltage sags under load.

For a rough sense of consumption, a 3-second puff at 60W to 80W uses somewhere in the region of 0.02 to 0.05 ml of e-liquid. UK rules cap tank capacity at 2 ml, so a UK-spec tank will give you something like 50 to 100 puffs per fill depending on how you vape. A 10 ml bottle, the maximum size allowed for nicotine liquid in the UK, therefore translates to roughly 250 to 500 puffs. That is an estimate, not a promise, and heavier wattage will push you to the lower end of the range.

Because of that tank size limit, the Rigel will not be the lowest-maintenance option for someone who vapes constantly through the day. Expect to refill several times daily if you vape at higher power, and plan around it by carrying a spare bottle.

Flavour profile and e-liquids that suit it

The kit itself has no flavour, since the flavour comes from the e-liquid and the coil. The nine variants in this product family are best understood as colourway or configuration choices rather than flavour choices, so the question to answer is instead: what e-liquid suits this kind of setup, and what will the coil do to it?

Sub-ohm mesh coils at moderate wattage are generally good at flavour clarity. The mesh surface heats a broad area of wick evenly, which tends to keep delicate top notes, such as fresh citrus and cool menthol, intact instead of scorching them. At lower wattage settings you get the cleanest flavour. As you push upwards, the vapour gets warmer and the profile shifts towards sweeter, denser notes, with some of the subtlety lost.

These are the e-liquid styles that tend to work well in a 50W to 100W mesh tank:

• Fruit blends: strawberry, mixed berry and tropical mixes carry well and hold their sweetness at higher wattage.
• Menthol and mint: spearmint, peppermint and iced fruit liquids feel crisp at lower wattage and stay cool even when the vapour is warm.
• Dessert and custard: thicker, creamier liquids benefit from the extra wattage and wick well in mesh coils, particularly in high-VG formulas.
• Tobacco: a good option for ex-smokers who want a familiar profile, though some tobacco liquids can taste harsh if the wattage is set too high.
• Cola and drinks flavours: carbonated and sweet drink profiles stay bright at medium power.
• Bubblegum and candy: sugary profiles are popular, but they tend to gunk coils faster, so expect shorter coil life.

A word on sweeteners. Heavily sweetened liquids caramelise on the coil and leave a residue, which dulls flavour over a week or two. If you vape dessert or candy liquids, consider swapping coils a little earlier, or choose lower-sweetener options. High-VG liquids (70VG and above) suit sub-ohm tanks because they wick quickly, but they create more vapour and a softer throat hit, while a 50/50 blend gives a slightly stronger throat feel and more flavour punch at lower power.

Finally, remember that you are not locked into a single coil or a single style. If you want more flavour, you can step down to a lower-wattage coil. If you want more vapour, you can step up to a higher-powered coil. That flexibility is what a mod kit offers and a disposable cannot.

Design and build quality

Dual-battery box mods share a familiar layout: a rectangular body with a screen at the front, a fire button on the side or top, and a battery door or sleeve at the base. The Rigel follows this pattern, and its dimensions are what you would expect from a two-cell device, so it is noticeably larger and heavier than a pod kit and sits more comfortably in a jacket pocket or bag than in a trouser pocket. If you currently use a small pod device, expect a clear step up in size and weight, especially once you have loaded two cells and filled the tank.

Smok builds its mods around a zinc alloy frame, and the finish is generally a coated or leather-effect surface, depending on the colourway. These are chosen both for grip and to reduce fingerprints. Zinc alloy is durable and takes knocks well, but it is not unbreakable. A drop onto tile or concrete can dent a corner or crack the tank glass, so a silicone sleeve is worth considering if you carry the device around daily.

The screen is a small colour or monochrome display (check the listing for the exact panel) that shows wattage, puff timer, coil resistance and battery level. A readable screen matters on a mod this size because you adjust power regularly. A button layout with distinct up and down controls is far easier to use than a single-dial design when you are adjusting settings by feel.

Points to look for when your kit arrives:

• Battery door or sleeve: it should close firmly with no wobble, since a loose door is the most common cause of intermittent firing on any dual-battery mod.
• 510 connector: the central pin should be sprung and sit slightly proud of the surface. Tanks should thread on smoothly without grinding.
• Fire button: it should click cleanly and not stick.
• Tank glass and seals: inspect the O-rings for damage before the first fill.

On the safety side, a mod of this type should carry the standard protections found in modern chipsets: short-circuit detection, low-resistance warnings, reverse-battery protection, over-discharge cutoff and a ten-second puff limit. These are not features to rely on as a substitute for good habits, but they do reduce risk if something goes wrong. Always read the printed manual that ships with the device, since the exact protections vary by chipset revision.

Battery life and charging

The Rigel Kit 230W runs on two 18650 lithium-ion cells in series, which is how a mod reaches 230W. Most 18650 cells sold for vaping sit between 2,500 mAh and 3,500 mAh, and the usual advice is to buy cells from a reputable brand with a high continuous discharge rating. At lower capacities you get more power delivery, at higher capacities you get more runtime, and there is usually a trade-off between the two.

As a rough guide, two 3,000 mAh cells in series store about 22 watt-hours. At an average of 70W, that works out to roughly 250 to 350 three-second puffs per charge, allowing for losses. At 150W the same battery gives you closer to 100 to 130 puffs. At 30W to 40W you can expect a couple of days of moderate use. These numbers are estimates drawn from the arithmetic of capacity versus load, not lab measurements, and your own result will vary with cell age, ambient temperature and coil resistance.

Choosing cells matters more than most buyers expect. Follow these rules:

• Use two matched cells. Buy them as a pair, from the same brand, the same batch, and charge and use them as a pair. Never mix old and new, or different brands.
• Check the continuous discharge rating. For comfortable use at 60W to 100W, cells rated at 20A or higher are the sensible floor. If you plan to run close to 230W, you want cells rated at 25A to 30A continuous.
• Buy from a trusted source. Counterfeit and re-wrapped cells are a real problem, and an inflated capacity rating on an unfamiliar brand is a warning sign.
• Inspect wraps before each use. A torn or damaged wrap exposes the metal casing, which can short against the battery door. Replace the wrap or the cell.
• Carry spare cells in a plastic case, not loose in a pocket with coins or keys.

Most recent Smok mods charge through a USB-C port on the device, and the Rigel is expected to follow suit, but check the product listing for the exact charging specification. In-device charging is convenient, but it tends to be slower and can warm the cells more than a dedicated external charger. If you charge regularly, an external charger with independent slots is gentler on the cells and often extends their life. Do not charge unattended or overnight, and do not charge on a bed or sofa.

When cells reach the end of their life, they should not go into household waste. Lithium-ion batteries are collected at many retailers and at household waste recycling centres, and shops that sell batteries and electrical items are required to take them back. Tape the terminals of a spent cell before dropping it off.

Coil and mesh technology

The coil is where most of the vape experience is decided. Smok sub-ohm tanks typically use one of two broad coil families: mesh coils, which use a flat sheet of perforated metal wrapped around the wick, and traditional round-wire coils, which use a wound wire. The kit ships with a sub-ohm tank designed for mesh-style coils, and Smok has a large catalogue of replacement coils for its tanks, so a spare supply is easy to find. Check the product listing for the exact coil that ships in the box, as it changes between kit revisions.

Why mesh? A mesh surface touches far more wick than a single wire does, which means three practical advantages:

• Faster ramp-up: the coil reaches working temperature almost immediately, so the vapour arrives with less delay.
• Even heating: a broad surface avoids the hot spots that cause burnt flavour, so each puff tastes consistent.
• Longer flavour life: because the load is spread over a larger area, mesh coils tend to hold their flavour for longer than a single round wire at similar power.

Mesh coils also have trade-offs. They draw more power at their rated wattage range, so battery life per charge drops. They also consume more e-liquid than a restricted coil, because they produce more vapour. And they do not appreciate being run outside their rated wattage window: too low and they underheat and gurgle, too high and the wick scorches.

Every Smok coil has a recommended wattage range printed on the side of the coil head or on the packaging. Begin at the lower third of the range, take a few puffs, and move upwards in small steps until the flavour and warmth feel right. Running a coil at the top of its range all the time will shorten its life.

Coil lifespan depends on what you vape and how hard. Typical mesh coils last somewhere between one and three weeks, though heavy users or those vaping sweet dessert liquids may need replacements sooner. Signs that a coil is finished include a burnt or flat taste even with fresh liquid, reduced vapour, gurgling that does not clear, and a darkened, crusty coil head when you remove it.

Always prime a new coil. Drip a few drops of e-liquid directly onto the cotton through the coil head holes, fill the tank, and let it sit for five to ten minutes before firing. Skipping this step is the single most common reason a new coil burns out on first use. Take a few non-inhaled puffs at low wattage to finish the job before moving up to your normal setting.

Nicotine strength guidance for a 230W kit

Choosing the right nicotine strength matters more with a high-power mod than with a pod kit, because sub-ohm vaping delivers a large volume of vapour per puff. The more vapour you inhale, the more nicotine you absorb per puff, so the strengths that suit a pod kit are usually too high here.

In the UK, the legal maximum strength for nicotine e-liquid is 20 mg/ml (2 per cent), and bottles of nicotine liquid are limited to 10 ml. A kit like this works best with liquids well below that cap. As a starting point:

• 0 mg to 3 mg (freebase, high VG): the typical choice for cloud-oriented vaping at 70W to 150W. Throat hit is soft and vapour is dense. Many former heavy smokers still find this too light and step up to 6 mg.
• 6 mg (freebase, 50/50 or 70/30): a sensible middle ground at 50W to 90W. Most ex-smokers who are comfortable with direct-to-lung inhaling land here.
• 10 mg to 12 mg (freebase or salts): suits those who vape at lower wattage (25W to 50W) with a tighter airflow, or who feel unsatisfied at 6 mg. At higher wattage this can become harsh.
• 18 mg to 20 mg (nicotine salts): best kept to lower wattage, restricted-airflow use. At 100W or higher, a 20 mg nic salt is intense and the nicotine intake can be uncomfortable, with dizziness, nausea or a racing heart as warning signs.

Two simple rules help here. First, as wattage and airflow go up, nicotine strength should go down. Second, if you are moving from a pod kit that used a 20 mg nic salt, do not simply carry the same strength over to a high-powered mod. Start with a 3 mg or 6 mg freebase liquid and see how it feels. You can always go higher, and you will probably find you need less nicotine than you expect because each puff delivers so much more vapour.

If you are vaping to quit smoking, a slightly higher strength early on can help control cravings, with the intention of stepping down over time. The NHS Stop Smoking services and most local pharmacies can offer advice on combining vaping with other support. Signs that your strength is too high include headache, nausea, lightheadedness and a sore, harsh throat. Signs that it is too low include constant cravings and chain vaping. Adjust in small steps and give each change a few days before deciding.

This product is for adults only. You must be 18 or over to buy it, and nicotine is addictive.

Who the Rigel Kit 230W is for, and who should skip it

No device suits everybody, and a 230W dual-battery kit is a clear fit for some vapers and a clear mismatch for others. Here is an honest breakdown.

It is a good fit if you:

• currently use a pod kit or a refillable pen and want more vapour, more flavour or more control.
• have moved away from disposables since the ban and want a reusable device that costs less over time.
• enjoy adjusting your setup, swapping coils and trying different liquids.
• vape mostly at home or at work and do not mind carrying a larger device.
• already know how to handle 18650 cells safely, or are willing to learn.

You should probably skip it if you:

• are brand new to vaping. A first-time vaper who has just stopped smoking is usually better served by a simple pod kit with a nicotine salt, which is easier to use and closer to a cigarette in terms of throat feel.
• want something pocket-sized. Two cells and a tank is a lot of device. If portability matters most, look at a single-battery pod mod.
• do not want to manage batteries. A removable-cell mod means buying cells, charging them, wrapping them, and replacing them over time. A pod kit with a built-in battery avoids all of that.
• prefer a tight, cigarette-like draw. A sub-ohm tank is built for a loose, open inhale. If you like a restricted mouth-to-lung draw, a pod kit or a restricted-draw tank will suit you better.
• vape very rarely. The upfront cost of a kit plus cells and coils is hard to justify for occasional use.

A middle path exists too. Many vapers buy a kit like this and run it at 30W to 50W with a restricted-airflow coil or a mouth-to-lung tank. That gives pod-like behaviour with the option to scale up later, though you are carrying more device than you need for that style.

If you are unsure, ask yourself one question: do you want to tinker? If the answer is yes, this kit is built for you. If the answer is no, a simpler device will give you a better day-to-day experience.

How to set up and use the kit

Setting up a box mod takes a few minutes. Follow these steps for the first use, and keep the manual to hand for model-specific button combinations.

• Inspect the contents. Check the mod, the tank, the spare glass or replacement parts if included, the coil heads, the USB cable and the manual. Look for damage to the 510 pin and the battery door.
• Fit the batteries. Insert two matched 18650 cells with the positive end oriented as marked inside the battery compartment. Reversing a cell is the most common mistake, so double-check the diagram before closing the door.
• Install and prime the coil. Screw a coil head into the tank base, drip e-liquid onto the exposed cotton, then reassemble.
• Fill the tank. Fill through the top-fill opening, avoid covering the central airflow tube, and do not overfill. Leave the tank for five to ten minutes so the cotton can soak.
• Screw the tank on. Tighten it finger-tight onto the 510 connection. Do not use tools.
• Switch on. Most Smok mods turn on and off with five rapid presses of the fire button. The screen will light up.
• Set the wattage. Use the up and down buttons to set an initial wattage in the lower third of the coil range printed on the coil head.
• Take a few primer puffs. Take two or three short puffs without inhaling, then try your first proper draw.

On a daily basis, the routine is straightforward. Refill the tank when it drops below the quarter mark. Switch the device off, or lock the fire button, before putting it in a bag or pocket, to prevent accidental firing. Wipe the 510 contacts occasionally with a dry cloth, and wipe away any condensation from the tank or the mod.

Airflow control is usually a ring at the base of the tank. Open it more for a looser, cooler draw at higher wattage, and close it down for a tighter draw at lower wattage. Experimenting with airflow and wattage together is the quickest route to a setup that feels right.

When you are finished with a coil, unscrew the tank, remove the coil head and dispose of it in line with local guidance. Coil heads contain metal and cotton and, depending on your council, may be accepted at household waste recycling centres for small electricals or metal. If you are unsure, ask your retailer or council about the nearest drop-off point.

Troubleshooting common problems

Most problems with a mod and tank come down to a short list of causes. Work through these before assuming the device is faulty.

• Device will not turn on. Check that the cells are inserted the right way round and are charged. Make sure the battery door is firmly closed. Try five fast clicks of the fire button. If the screen stays blank, try a different pair of cells to rule out a flat or damaged battery.
• Screen shows a coil error such as check atomizer. The mod is not detecting a coil. Unscrew the tank and screw it back on, making sure the 510 connection is clean and tight. If the problem continues, the coil may not be seated properly in the tank base, or the 510 pin may be dirty.
• Short circuit warning. Remove the tank and check for e-liquid on the 510 connection. Dry both surfaces and try again. If the message persists with a different tank, stop using the device and contact the retailer.
• Burnt taste. This usually means the coil was not primed, the tank is running low, the wattage is too high for the coil, or the coil is simply worn. Refill, reduce the wattage and wait a few minutes. If it still tastes burnt, change the coil.
• Gurgling or spitting. Condensation has gathered in the airflow channel. Tilt the tank, blow gently through the drip tip to clear it, and wipe any excess. A very thick liquid at low wattage often causes this.
• Leaking from the tank. Check that the O-rings are intact and seated correctly and that the coil is screwed in fully. Overfilling and rapid changes in pressure, such as flying or driving up a hill, are common causes. Keep the tank upright where possible.
• Weak vapour. Raise the wattage a few watts, open the airflow slightly, or replace the coil. Low battery charge can also reduce output.
• Battery drains very fast. Cells lose capacity with age. If you have used the same pair for a year or more, or if they are getting warm in use, replace them as a pair. Never continue to use a cell that becomes hot.
• Fire button sticks or the device fires on its own. Switch it off immediately and remove the batteries. Do not continue to use it.

If anything looks swollen, damaged or smells of chemicals, stop using it, remove the cells if it is safe to do so, and take them to a battery recycling point. For anything the above does not fix, contact the retailer with your order number, a description of the symptom and a photo where possible.

Value for money

Judging value on a mod kit means looking at the whole cost of ownership, not just the price on the page. There are four elements to the cost: the kit, the cells, the coils and the e-liquid.

• The kit: a one-off purchase. A dual-battery mod and tank from an established brand like Smok sits in the mid-range of the market, well below flagship enthusiast mods and above entry-level pod kits.
• The cells: a pair of quality 18650s is an additional cost if they are not in the box, but they last for hundreds of charge cycles, and you can usually keep using them across several devices.
• The coils: typically sold in packs of three to five, and each coil lasts for roughly one to three weeks. This is the main ongoing hardware cost.
• The e-liquid: sub-ohm vaping uses more liquid than mouth-to-lung vaping, so budget accordingly. Buying larger multipacks or 10 ml bottles in bulk generally lowers the per-millilitre cost.

Compared with the disposables that were previously popular in the UK, a refillable kit generally works out cheaper within a few weeks for a regular vaper. A disposable device often costs several pounds for a few hundred puffs and is thrown away afterwards. A refillable setup spreads that cost over many months, even once you factor in coils, cells and liquid. The comparison is also kinder to the environment, since disposables produced a large amount of electronic waste and the ban was introduced specifically to address that.

Against other mods in the same class, the Rigel Kit 230W competes on the usual factors of power, features, build and price. Its advantage is the strength of the Smok ecosystem: coils are widely stocked across UK retailers, and there is a large user base, so advice and spare parts are easy to find. That matters over a two-year ownership period more than a small difference in feature lists.

The limits of the value case are also worth stating. If you only ever vape at 30W to 40W, you are paying for power headroom you will not use, and a smaller, cheaper device would give you the same experience. If you are an occasional vaper, a pod kit with a replaceable pod will cost less up front. And if you do not already own suitable cells and a charger, the extra spend at the start is higher than the sticker price suggests.

In short, the value is strong for someone who vapes daily, wants to move to a reusable system and will use at least some of the extra power on offer.

How it compares with similar kits

The dual-battery, 200W-plus category is crowded, and several other brands make devices that appeal to the same buyer. Here is a fair look at how the Rigel Kit 230W sits against common alternatives, with the caveat that specifications and prices change between revisions, so check each listing before deciding.

Versus the Vaporesso GEN 200 and its successors. Vaporesso mods in this class are known for fast chipsets and polished menus, and their tanks are generally well regarded for flavour. The main differences come down to ecosystem and personal taste. If you already own Vaporesso coils, staying in that family makes sense. If you are starting from scratch, Smok coils are equally easy to buy in the UK, so there is little to separate them on availability.

Versus the Geekvape Aegis range. Geekvape builds its Aegis mods around ruggedness, with dust, water and shock resistance as selling points. If you work outdoors, on a building site or in a workshop, that durability can be a genuine advantage. The Rigel is a more conventional design. If you do not need that level of toughness, you may prefer a lighter or more comfortable device.

Versus the Voopoo Drag series. Voopoo mods are popular for ergonomics and chipset features. They sit in a similar price bracket, and the choice often comes down to which body shape and tank you prefer in the hand. Hold both if you can before deciding.

Versus single-battery pod mods. A smaller device such as a pod mod is easier to carry, simpler to run and often cheaper to buy. It cannot match a 230W mod for raw output, and it will not support the same range of tanks. If you vape at under 40W, you may not need the Rigel at all.

Versus the disposable vapes now off the shelves. There is no direct comparison any more, since disposables can no longer be sold, but for context: a mod kit delivers a stronger, more customisable experience for lower running cost and less waste. The trade-off is a more involved setup and a larger device.

Where the Rigel stands out is in the familiarity of the Smok ecosystem, the breadth of available coils and the straightforward layout. Where it may fall short, depending on your needs, is in portability, water resistance and the lack of advanced features aimed at enthusiasts, who may prefer a more specialised mod.

If you want the safest bet from this comparison, choose the device that fits your hand, matches the coils you already have, and sits within your budget. Differences in raw performance between the leading brands at this level are small, and the right choice is the one you will actually enjoy using every day.