FreeMax 904L M4 Mesh Coil 0.15Ohm (Pack of 3)

Overview

The FreeMax 904L M4 Mesh Coil 0.15Ohm (Pack of 3) by Freemax at 0mg. Free UK delivery over £20, same-day dispatch on weekday orders before 4pm.

FreeMax 904L M4 Mesh Coil 0.15Ohm (Pack of 3): what you are buying

The FreeMax 904L M4 Mesh Coil 0.15Ohm (Pack of 3) is a set of three replacement coil heads from Freemax's 904L M-series range. Each head is a ready-built unit: a sheet of 904L stainless steel mesh formed into the heating element, backed by cotton wicking, and housed in a metal base that connects the coil to the tank and the battery. You do not build or wrap anything yourself. You remove the tired coil, fit a fresh one, prime it, fill the tank and carry on. Once you have done it one time, the whole job takes a couple of minutes.

The headline numbers are simple. The resistance is 0.15 ohm, which puts it firmly in sub-ohm territory. The heating element is a 904L stainless steel mesh rather than round wire. The pack contains three heads, so a single order covers several weeks of normal use for most people. The M4 label identifies which coil in the M-series family this is, and that detail matters, because coil families are not interchangeable between brands and are not always interchangeable between different tanks from the same brand.

That last point is the most important thing to understand before you buy. This is an accessory, not a complete vape. It only works in a tank or atomiser designed to accept this coil family. Check the tank manual, the markings on the coil you are running now, or the compatibility details on the listing. If your tank currently uses a Freemax M-series head, the 904L M4 is a like-for-like candidate, but confirm the exact designation before ordering rather than assuming.

In the sections below we cover what 904L mesh actually does, how a 0.15 ohm coil behaves, what power and battery you need to drive it safely, which e-liquids suit it, how to fit and prime it, how to fix common problems, and how it compares with rival mesh coil ranges. We have tried to be straight about the trade-offs. A 0.15 ohm coil produces a lot of vapour and uses a lot of liquid and battery. That suits some vapers very well and others not at all.

Key facts in short:

• Product: Freemax 904L M4 mesh replacement coil, pack of 3 heads
• Resistance: 0.15 ohm (sub-ohm)
• Element: 904L stainless steel mesh with cotton wicking
• Style of vaping: direct-to-lung, with open airflow
• Type: consumable accessory that contains no nicotine and no e-liquid
• Age: sold to adults aged 18 and over only

904L stainless steel mesh explained: the coil technology

904L is a grade of stainless steel with an unusually high alloy content. Alongside iron it contains a large proportion of chromium and nickel, plus molybdenum and a little copper. It was developed for industrial settings such as chemical processing, where metal has to survive acidic and corrosive environments for years. Coil makers adopted it because e-liquid is not an inert substance. It contains acidic flavour compounds, sweeteners and, in many cases, nicotine, and all of it sits against hot metal for hours at a time.

The practical claim behind 904L is resistance to corrosion and surface degradation. The property itself is real and well documented for the alloy. Whether you can taste the difference against a cheaper stainless steel or a Kanthal-based mesh is more subjective, and we would not promise it. What we can say is that a coil which resists surface breakdown has a reasonable chance of tasting consistent for longer, and that Freemax have built this range around that idea.

The second half of the technology is the mesh itself. A mesh element is a fine woven screen of wire, shaped into a curved or folded surface that presses against the cotton wick. Compared with a round wire wound into a spiral, a mesh has far more surface area in contact with the cotton. That has several effects:

• Even heating: the heat is spread over a wide area instead of concentrated along a thin spiral, which reduces hot spots that scorch the cotton.
• Fast ramp-up: the element reaches working temperature quickly, so vapour arrives almost as soon as you press the button or inhale.
• Efficient wicking: liquid reaches more of the heated surface, which suits thicker, high-VG e-liquids.
• Low resistance without bulk: a mesh can reach 0.15 ohm without needing a large, heavy build.

Why 0.15 ohm? Electrical power at the coil follows the relationship power equals voltage squared divided by resistance. At a fixed voltage, a lower resistance gives more power, so a 0.15 ohm coil can be driven hard and produce a lot of vapour. It also draws a high current from the battery, which we cover in the power section below.

One honest caveat. 904L contains a significant amount of nickel, in the region of a quarter of the alloy by weight. Nickel sensitivity exists, and anyone who knows they react to nickel jewellery or similar should speak to a GP or pharmacist before choosing any stainless steel coil. For most people it is a non-issue. Also, unless the packaging states otherwise, use this coil in normal wattage mode rather than temperature control, since the coil markings are the final word on what the manufacturer supports.

Performance and vapour delivery at 0.15 ohm

A 0.15 ohm mesh coil is built for direct-to-lung vaping. That means a long, relaxed, open draw, rather than the tight, cigarette-style pull of a mouth-to-lung setup. The airflow in a compatible tank is wide, the coil is fed by large wicking ports, and the whole system is designed to move a lot of air and a lot of liquid. If you pull on it like a cigarette, you will likely find it airy and thin. If you inhale gently into the lungs, it fills out.

In practice you can expect three things from a coil in this class. First, quick response. Mesh reaches temperature fast, so there is little lag between pressing fire and getting vapour. Second, dense vapour. At the higher end of the power range the clouds are large, which is the main reason people choose sub-ohm in the first place. Third, a throat hit that depends heavily on your nicotine strength and power setting, not just on the coil. At low nicotine levels the hit is soft and smooth, which is how most sub-ohm vapers like it.

The coil also has a working window. Freemax specify a recommended power range for their coils, normally printed on the coil head or the box. Sub-ohm mesh coils of this type usually sit in a window of roughly the 50W to 80W region, but treat that as a general guide and follow the figure printed on your own coil. The sensible method is to start at the low end of the stated range, vape for a few minutes, and nudge the power up in small steps until the flavour is full without tasting hot or dry.

Running a coil at the top of its range gives the most vapour, but it also shortens coil life, empties the tank faster and drains the battery quicker. Running it near the bottom gives a cooler, more flavourful vape that lasts longer. Many experienced users settle in the lower-middle of the window for exactly that reason. There is no prize for the highest wattage.

A few other practical points about performance:

• Liquid consumption: a 0.15 ohm coil uses liquid quickly. Expect to refill a small tank several times a day if you vape heavily.
• Tank size: UK-market tanks are limited by regulation to 2ml of capacity, so refills are frequent compared with the larger tanks sold in some other countries.
• Warm-up and priming: performance in the first few minutes depends on proper priming, covered in the how-to section below.
• Consistency: output tends to be steady for most of the coil's life, then drops off as residue builds up on the mesh.

Flavour profile and how it changes over the life of the coil

A coil does not have a flavour of its own. What it does is determine how faithfully the flavour of your e-liquid comes through. Mesh coils generally have a reputation for good flavour clarity, because the large, evenly heated surface vaporises liquid at a consistent temperature without charring it. Freemax's 904L mesh sits in that tradition, and the common description from users is a clean, neutral, slightly warm delivery that lets the liquid do the talking.

Different liquid styles behave differently on it. Fruit and ice blends tend to come through bright and clear, with the menthol or cooling agent registering without being flattened. Dessert and custard flavours, which are heavy on sweeteners, are rich but also more likely to leave residue on the coil, so they can shorten its life. Tobacco flavours are fairly well represented, though a lot of people find tobacco liquids benefit from slightly lower power so the character does not turn harsh. Menthol and mint work well and are forgiving.

Flavour is also where you will notice the coil ageing. A fresh 904L mesh coil, once primed and bedded in, should give its best flavour in the first days of use. As the weeks pass, residue from sweeteners and flavour compounds builds up on the mesh and cotton. The tell-tale signs are a flatter taste, a faint muted or slightly burnt note, and a need to push the power up to get the same effect. When you notice that, the coil is finished and swapping it is the right fix. Cleaning a mesh coil is rarely worth the effort.

If you change e-liquid flavour often, be aware of a thing vapers call ghosting. Cotton holds on to flavour. A coil that has been used with a strong menthol liquid can carry a faint hint of it into the next bottle. Three practical approaches work well:

• Dedicate each coil to one flavour family, such as fruit, then replace it when you change to something very different.
• If you want to change flavour mid-coil, run the tank nearly empty, wipe out the reservoir, and refill, accepting that a trace of the old flavour may linger for a tank or two.
• Keep a separate tank and coil for strong menthol or heavy dessert liquids if you swap often.

Because this is a pack of three, it suits the dedicated-coil approach well. You can keep a spare in the drawer without worrying that it is wasted, and fitting a fresh head is the quickest way to reset the flavour of your setup.

Design and build quality

A replacement coil is a small object, but a lot of engineering sits in it. The visible parts are the metal base, which carries the electrical contact and the threaded or pressed fitting into the tank, and the cylindrical or shaped shell that surrounds the mesh. Inside that shell, the mesh element and cotton are aligned so that the cotton tails reach through the wicking holes and draw liquid from the tank reservoir. The coil is ready to use out of the pack, apart from priming.

What to look for when you open the pack, and what indicates a good unit:

• A clean, undamaged base: the electrical contact should be intact and free from dents, so it makes a solid connection with the tank.
• Intact wicking holes: the openings on the side of the coil should be clear, with cotton visible and not crushed or displaced.
• No visible deformation of the mesh: if you can see into the head, the mesh should look evenly shaped.
• Seal or O-ring in place: where the design uses a silicone ring to seal against the tank, it should be seated and not twisted.
• Clear markings: the resistance and recommended power range are normally printed on the coil. Use these to confirm you have the right item.

Handling matters. Do not squeeze the shell or press on the cotton. Do not touch the inside of the coil head with your fingers, and do not strip the coil with force when fitting it. Hand-tight is enough. Over-tightening can damage the seal or the thread and cause leaks, which is one of the most common reasons a perfectly good coil seems to fail.

The pack of three arrives as individual heads, which makes it easy to carry a spare in a pocket or bag. That is a real convenience. A coil that fails on a long day is an interruption, but a spare in your bag turns it into a thirty-second swap. It is worth keeping the spares in their packaging, away from heat and damp, until you need them.

Quality control on mass-produced coils is never perfect, across any brand. Occasionally you will get a head with a loose connection, a poorly wicked unit or one that does not fire correctly. If that happens, contact us, as faulty goods are covered by your statutory rights, and the pack of three means you can usually keep vaping on a different head in the meantime while we sort out the problem.

Power, battery and charging: what a 0.15 ohm coil demands

A coil has no battery of its own, so this section is about the device you pair it with. It is the part buyers most often overlook, and it is the part that affects safety. A 0.15 ohm coil pulls a lot of current, and the battery inside your mod or kit must be able to supply it.

The arithmetic is straightforward. The coil's voltage is the square root of power multiplied by resistance, and the current is voltage divided by resistance. At 0.15 ohm those figures work out roughly as follows:

• 50W: about 2.7 volts and 18 amps at the coil
• 60W: about 3.0 volts and 20 amps at the coil
• 70W: about 3.2 volts and 22 amps at the coil
• 80W: about 3.5 volts and 23 amps at the coil

These are coil-side numbers. The actual draw on the battery depends on how your device regulates power and how efficient it is, and it can be higher once voltage conversion is accounted for. The takeaway is that this is a high-drain application. If your device uses a replaceable 18650 or 21700 cell, choose a genuine cell from a reputable manufacturer with a continuous discharge rating comfortably above the load, and do not rely on a cell with a rating that only just meets it. Built-in battery devices handle this for you, but you should still confirm that the device is designed for sub-ohm coils at the power you intend to use.

Charging habits are also worth discussing. Heavy sub-ohm use drains a battery fast, so charge when the level falls rather than running a device flat repeatedly. Use the charger supplied with the device or a good-quality equivalent. Do not charge cells or devices under a pillow, on a bed or unattended overnight, and never use a damaged cell or a charger that runs unusually hot. If a replaceable cell has a torn wrap, dents or leaks, stop using it.

Battery capacity affects how long a day you get. A device with a larger cell will last longer between charges than a small one at the same wattage, but a 0.15 ohm coil at 60W or more will still drain a typical single-cell device in a few hours of steady vaping. If you want long battery life from a compact device, a coil with a higher resistance, run at lower power, is the more economical choice.

When a cell or built-in battery reaches the end of its life, do not put it in general waste or the recycling bin. Lithium batteries cause fires in refuse vehicles and waste sites. Take them to a battery recycling point, which you will find at many supermarkets, council recycling centres and electrical retailers.

E-liquid and nicotine strength guidance for a 0.15 ohm coil

Choosing e-liquid for a 0.15 ohm mesh coil is mostly about matching the liquid to the hardware. The coil is built for open, high-power, direct-to-lung vaping, so the e-liquid should be designed for that too. The wrong liquid is the most common reason people think a perfectly good coil is poor.

On the base ratio, a higher-VG blend, around 70VG and 30PG, is a good fit. Vegetable glycerine produces dense vapour and a smooth, rounded hit, while propylene glycol carries flavour and adds throat hit. A 50VG and 50PG blend also works well in a mesh coil, with a bit more flavour sharpness and a slightly stronger hit. Very thick liquids above 70VG can wick more slowly and may cause dry hits at high power, so if you experience that, step down in thickness or power.

For nicotine, the guiding principle is that strength should fall as power rises. A sub-ohm coil produces a lot of vapour with every pull, so you inhale far more nicotine per puff than you would from a low-power pod. Typical choices are:

• 0mg: for people who have stopped nicotine or want only the flavour and the cloud.
• 3mg per ml (0.3%): the most common strength for sub-ohm users who have already moved down from cigarettes. It gives a smooth hit with a lot of vapour.
• 6mg per ml (0.6%): a more noticeable throat hit, suited to people who find 3mg too light, particularly on tobacco and menthol flavours.
• 12mg per ml and above: generally not recommended for a coil like this. At 0.15 ohm and high power, the hit is harsh and the nicotine intake is very high.

In the UK, nicotine e-liquid is capped at 20mg per ml, and individual bottles are limited to 10ml. Before the sale of single-use vapes was banned across the UK in June 2025, the same 20mg per ml limit and a 2ml tank limit applied to disposables. Higher-strength nicotine salts in the 10mg to 20mg range are designed for low-power pod kits and are not well suited to a 0.15 ohm coil, where they can feel harsh and waste a lot of nicotine.

Most sub-ohm vapers in the UK use shortfill e-liquid with nicotine shots added. For example, a 60ml bottle containing 50ml of liquid with one 10ml 18mg nicotine shot added makes a 3mg per ml mix. A single shot of 20mg per ml in the same bottle would come out at roughly 3.3mg per ml. Always shake the bottle well after adding the shot, and let it rest for a short while before filling the tank.

If you are not sure where to start, begin at 3mg per ml. You can always go up. If you are coming off a high nicotine habit, such as a high-strength pod or disposable, give yourself a few days to adjust. If you do not currently use nicotine, do not start, since this style of vaping is not meant for non-smokers.

Who this coil is for, and who should look elsewhere

The FreeMax 904L M4 Mesh Coil 0.15Ohm is a specific tool for a specific kind of vaper. Being clear about that saves money.

It is a good fit if you:

• Already own a Freemax tank or kit that takes this coil family and need a replacement.
• Prefer direct-to-lung vaping, with big airflow, dense vapour and a gentle throat hit.
• Use a device with a battery capable of supplying the current a 0.15 ohm coil needs.
• Use e-liquids in the 50VG or 70VG range at low nicotine strengths.
• Want to buy replacements in a multipack so a spare is always available.
• Like the idea of a stainless steel mesh with corrosion resistance and an even heat profile.

It is probably not the right choice if you:

• Want a tight, restricted, cigarette-like mouth-to-lung draw. A higher-resistance coil or a pod system suits that better.
• Are looking for a coil for a different brand's tank. The coil must match the tank, and you should buy the coil designed for it.
• Use high-strength nicotine salts. They are not designed for a 0.15 ohm coil at high power.
• Want maximum battery life from a small device. A 0.15 ohm coil is power-hungry.
• Are brand new to vaping and have never handled a rechargeable device. A simpler pod kit is easier to start with, and an adult smoker looking to quit should ideally speak to a local stop smoking service for support.
• Have a known nickel sensitivity, in which case check with a healthcare professional first.

It is also worth being clear about who should not be using any vaping product at all. They are not intended for under-18s or for people who have never smoked. Vaping is a tool for adult smokers who want a less harmful alternative to cigarettes, not a lifestyle product for anyone else. If you are pregnant or have a medical condition, speak to a healthcare professional about whether vaping is appropriate for you.

If you are not sure whether this coil matches your tank, take a few minutes to compare the markings on your existing coil with the product listing before ordering. A wrong coil in the right tank can lead to leaks and poor performance, and in the worst case, to a bad connection. If you cannot tell, send us a message with the name of your tank and we will point you at the right head.

How to fit, prime and break in a new coil

Fitting a coil properly is what separates a coil that lasts from one that fails in a day. The process is the same for most pre-built heads, though your tank manual is the final word on any design-specific detail. Here is the standard sequence.

• Empty the tank: pour out any remaining liquid and, with the device switched off, separate the tank sections.
• Remove the old coil: unscrew or pull out the old head, depending on the design. Dispose of it carefully.
• Clean the tank: rinse the reservoir with warm water, dry it fully and wipe the base with a lint-free cloth. Leftover moisture will cause gurgling.
• Soak the new coil: place a few drops of e-liquid directly onto the cotton through the wicking ports. Do this on all sides until the cotton is visibly darker. Do not flood the centre of the coil.
• Fit the coil: screw or push the new head into the base until it is secure. Hand-tight is enough.
• Fill the tank: pour liquid down the side of the reservoir, avoiding the central airflow tube. Do not overfill, since an overfilled tank is a leading cause of leaks.
• Wait: let the tank stand for around ten minutes so the cotton wicks completely before the first puff.
• Take some priming puffs: with the device on, take several draws without firing to pull liquid through the cotton.
• Fire at low power: start at the bottom of the coil's range and take a few short pulls. Raise the power gradually.

The patient approach pays off. Most dry-tasting coils in their first few minutes were not primed enough. Firing a dry coil at full power burns the cotton in seconds, and burnt cotton cannot be fixed. It is better to wait an extra five minutes than to waste a coil.

As a rough guide, many vapers find a mesh coil like this one lasts from one to three weeks of regular use, though this varies widely. Heavy use, sweet liquids, high power and chain vaping all shorten life. Light use, lower power and less sweet liquids extend it. A coil wearing out does not fail suddenly. It fades.

Signs it is time to change the coil:

• Flavour has become flat, muted or faintly burnt.
• You need to turn the power up to get the same vapour as before.
• The liquid looks dark or gunky and the coil head appears discoloured.
• You hear more crackling or spitting.

When you remove a used coil, do not throw it into the recycling bin along with plastic and card. Used coils are small mixed-material items. Check your local council guidance, and take advantage of vape shop and household recycling centre take-back where it is available. Batteries and any electronic device should always go to a proper drop-off point, never into household waste.

Troubleshooting: leaks, gurgling, dry hits and burnt taste

Most coil problems have simple causes. Working through them in order is quicker than guessing, and the pack of three makes it easy to test whether the coil is at fault or something else is.

Leaking from the airflow or base. The usual causes are an overfilled tank, a coil that is not fully seated, a worn or twisted seal, or a fill port left open. Check that the tank sections are tight, the seals are in place, and that you filled below the maximum line. Changes in air pressure, such as on a flight, can also push liquid out, so keep the tank low and the device upright when travelling.

Gurgling or spitting. This is typically condensation or excess liquid in the airflow path. Wipe the airflow tube and the coil base dry, check that the tank is not overfilled, and avoid tilting the device while firing. A coil that has been flooded with too much liquid on priming will also gurgle until it settles.

Dry hit or burnt taste on a new coil. Almost always insufficient priming, a tank running low, or power set too high. Refill, wait, and restart at the low end of the range. If the burnt taste remains after a few minutes, the cotton is probably scorched and the coil should be replaced.

Burnt taste on an older coil. This is normal wear. Residue has built up on the mesh and cotton, and the coil is spent. Reduce the number of heavily sweetened liquids you use if this happens quickly, and fit a fresh head.

Weak vapour or flat flavour. Check the liquid thickness. A very thick liquid can starve a coil, particularly at lower temperatures. Also check the airflow is open, the battery is charged and the power is within range.

Device shows a coil, atomizer or short circuit error. Check the coil is fully seated, the contacts are clean and dry, and the tank is tightened correctly. If the message remains, try a second coil from the pack. If the second works, the first was faulty or poorly seated. If neither works, the fault may be in the tank base or the device connection.

A few preventive habits cut the number of problems you will see:

• Never fire the device without liquid in the tank.
• Avoid chain vaping. Give the coil a few seconds between puffs to re-wick.
• Keep the device upright when not in use.
• Wipe the connection points on the coil and tank base now and then.
• Replace the coil at the first sign of fading flavour, rather than pushing it to failure.

If none of this resolves the problem, get in touch. Include your tank name, the power you were using and the liquid in the tank, and we can narrow down the cause quickly.

Value for money in a pack of three

Coils are the main ongoing cost of tank vaping after e-liquid, so it is worth thinking about value carefully. The simplest way to compare is cost per coil and cost per week of use. Check the current price on the listing, divide it by three to get the cost of each head, and then divide that by the number of weeks you expect each coil to last. A coil that costs a little more but lasts twice as long is cheaper in the long run.

Consider a worked example. If you replace a coil roughly every two weeks, one pack of three covers about six weeks of vaping. Over a year you would use around twenty-six coils, or between eight and nine packs. That puts a single pack in perspective as a six-week supply, and it makes a case for buying packs rather than single heads, which usually cost more per unit.

There are other costs and savings to weigh up alongside the coil price:

• E-liquid: a 0.15 ohm coil uses more liquid than a higher-resistance coil. If liquid is a big part of your spending, a higher-resistance coil run at lower power will cost less to feed.
• Batteries: high-power vaping wears cells faster and drains rechargeable devices more often.
• Waste: a replaceable coil in a refillable tank creates much less waste than throwing away a whole device. With single-use vapes now banned in the UK, refillable systems with replaceable coils are the standard route for adult smokers who want an alternative to cigarettes.
• Convenience: a multipack avoids paying delivery on lots of small orders and keeps a spare on hand.

It is fair to say that 904L mesh coils sit in the mid range of coil pricing. They cost more than basic Kanthal-style coils and are usually comparable with other branded mesh ranges. Whether the 904L element justifies a small premium is a judgement for you. If you prize consistent flavour and are happy with the Freemax tank ecosystem, many users find the cost reasonable. If you simply want the cheapest way to keep a tank firing, there are cheaper options in other systems, though you would need the matching tank.

On buying, we sell to adults aged 18 and over and deliver across the UK. Delivery times and costs are on our delivery page, and orders are dispatched from within the UK. Returns follow our published policy. Unopened coil packs are generally straightforward to return, while for hygiene reasons used or opened coils may not be eligible. Faulty items are covered by your statutory rights under UK consumer law. Read the returns page for current details before you order, and contact us if anything arrives damaged or does not work as expected.

How it compares with other mesh coil ranges

Comparing coils across brands is awkward, because coils are tied to tanks. You cannot swap a Vaporesso coil into a Freemax tank. The real choice is made when you buy the tank, and the coil decision follows. With that caveat, here is a fair look at how this coil sits against the main rivals.

Against Kanthal and other basic mesh coils. A Kanthal-based mesh is cheaper to make and works fine for many vapers. The argument for 904L is corrosion resistance and a clean, stable surface. If you vape sweet or acidic liquids and replace coils often because of fading flavour, a stainless steel alloy like 904L is worth trying. If you replace coils frequently anyway and are cost-driven, the cheaper element is a reasonable choice.

Against Vaporesso GTX mesh coils. Vaporesso's GTX range is widely sold and well regarded, with several resistance options and a reputation for good flavour. It is a good rival in terms of performance and availability. The decision comes down to which tank you prefer, since GTX coils fit Vaporesso hardware.

Against Voopoo PnP coils. The Voopoo PnP range is popular for its push-in fitting, which makes coil changes very quick, and for its range of resistances including sub-ohm mesh options. It is a strong competitor on convenience. Again, it only works with Voopoo and compatible hardware.

Against Geekvape mesh coils. Geekvape's mesh ranges offer a similar set of resistances and wide availability, and the brand has an established following among sub-ohm users. In general terms, performance is in the same bracket as Freemax's offering.

Against Smok mesh coils. Smok has produced mesh coils for many years across a wide range of tanks, with a big range of resistances and a large installed base. Availability is excellent. The main difference you will notice is the choice of tank and the character of the airflow rather than any dramatic difference in the mesh itself.

Where the Freemax 904L M4 compares well and where it does not:

• In its favour: 904L construction, mesh heating with even heat, a pack of three for convenience, and a low resistance suited to dense vapour.
• Against it: it is tied to the Freemax ecosystem, a 0.15 ohm coil drains batteries and liquid faster than higher-resistance options, and compatibility must be checked before you buy.
• Neutral: flavour quality is good but not dramatically different from other quality mesh coils. The honest difference is small.

The bottom line is that if you already run a Freemax tank that takes this head, there is no sound reason to look elsewhere for replacements. If you are choosing a new system from scratch, consider the whole package of tank, coil availability, price per coil and how easy it is to find replacements, and do not choose on coil material alone.