Lost Vape E Plus Replacement Pods 0.6ohm (Dual Mesh)

Overview

The Lost Vape E Plus Replacement Pods 0.6ohm (Dual Mesh) by Lost Vape in 0.6ohm (Dual Mesh) at 0mg. Free UK delivery over £20, same-day dispatch on weekday orders before 4pm.

Lost Vape E Plus Replacement Pods 0.3ohm Mesh: What They Are and Where They Fit

Lost Vape E Plus Replacement Pods 0.3ohm (Mesh) are the swap-in pods for the Lost Vape E Plus pod system, built around an integrated mesh coil rated at 0.3 ohm. They are listed at £7.95, which sits in the middle of the market for a replacement pod from a mainstream hardware brand. This is a consumable part and not a standalone vape. The pod has no battery, no charging port and no way of working on its own, so it is only useful if you already own a compatible Lost Vape E Plus device. If you are shopping for hardware, look at the kits first. If you already have the device and the pod in it has reached the end of its working life, this is the page you want.

Two features define this pod: the mesh coil and the 0.3 ohm resistance. A mesh coil replaces the old wire-wrapped heating element with a thin, perforated sheet of resistance metal that wets across a wide area, and 0.3 ohm is a low resistance that pulls noticeably more power from the battery than the 0.8 ohm to 1.2 ohm pods that small pod kits are usually fitted with. The practical result is warm, dense vapour and quick flavour delivery, paid for with faster liquid use, shorter battery life between charges and more sensitivity to the nicotine strength you put in it. Each of those trade-offs gets its own section below, because together they decide whether this is the right pod for you.

A word on variants. Lost Vape has sold E Plus pods in more than one resistance and coil layout, including a 0.45 ohm dual mesh version. This listing is the 0.3 ohm mesh pod. Check the resistance printed on the pod or its packaging before you buy several, because a different resistance changes how the device behaves, how fast it drains and how strong the nicotine feels.

This guide is written for UK adults. Nicotine e-liquid in the UK is capped at 20mg/ml, pods and tanks cannot hold more than 2ml, and refill bottles are capped at 10ml. Those limits shape how long a pod lasts and what strength makes sense, and we refer back to them throughout. Vaping products are for adults only. Strictly 18+. Nicotine is addictive, and if you do not already use nicotine products there is no reason to start.

Pod Specifications and Compatibility at a Glance

Here is what we can state with confidence about this product, and where you should check the pack in your hand rather than take our word for it. We would rather be upfront about that than fill this page with numbers that cannot be verified.

• Product: Lost Vape E Plus Replacement Pod, 0.3 ohm mesh version.
• Coil: integrated mesh coil at a nominal 0.3 ohm. The coil is built into the pod, so there is no separate coil head to unscrew. When the coil wears out, you replace the whole pod.
• Capacity: pods sold for refilling in the UK are limited to 2ml, so this pod holds 2ml or less. The volume printed on the pod is the figure to trust.
• Compatibility: made for the Lost Vape E Plus system. Do not assume it fits other Lost Vape devices such as the Ursa range, because pod shapes differ between product families.
• Liquid type: designed for ordinary e-liquid. Thinner mixes such as 50/50 propylene glycol to vegetable glycerine suit mesh coils better than very thick, high-VG liquids.
• Nicotine: up to 20mg/ml is the legal ceiling in the UK. For a 0.3 ohm pod a much lower strength is usually more comfortable, as covered in the strength section below.
• Price: £7.95 per pod.
• Not included: battery section, charger or e-liquid.

Resistance numbers tell you how hard the coil pulls on the battery. Power, voltage and resistance are linked by a simple relationship: the voltage across the coil equals the square root of the power multiplied by the resistance. At 0.3 ohm, a device running at 20W is putting about 2.4V across the coil. At 30W that rises to 3.0V, and at 40W it is about 3.5V. Current climbs with power too, at roughly 9 amps at 25W and 10 amps at 30W. Those figures are why low-resistance pods are paired with devices that have a decent battery and proper protection circuitry, and why a pod made for the E Plus should be used in that device rather than a lookalike.

If your pack lists a recommended wattage range, treat that as the working window. Starting at the bottom of the range and moving up in small steps is far kinder to the coil than starting high and backing off after the first burnt puff.

How a 0.3 ohm Mesh Coil Works

Traditional pod coils use a round wire wrapped around a cotton wick. Heat concentrates along that thin wire, so liquid at the contact points vaporises quickly while the rest of the wick lags behind. A mesh coil swaps the wire for a flat or curved sheet of fine mesh, usually a stainless steel or Kanthal-type alloy, pressed against the cotton. The pack rarely states which alloy is used, so we will not guess.

The advantages follow from geometry. The sheet has far more surface area touching the cotton, so heat spreads more evenly and liquid is vaporised across a wider patch. That tends to give a faster ramp-up, so the first second of a puff already tastes of something, and a fuller flavour because less liquid is scorched at hot spots. Mesh also sits close to the wick, which helps wicking keep pace when the draw is long.

Low resistance amplifies all of this. A 0.3 ohm mesh has a lot of heating surface, and a device can drive it at power levels that would burn out a 1.0 ohm wire coil quickly. You get more vapour per second than a typical mouth-to-lung pod, and the vapour is warmer.

The trade-offs are real, and it is better to know them before you buy:

• Liquid hungry: more power means more liquid vaporised per puff. A 2ml pod empties faster than it would at a higher resistance.
• Wicking-limited: a cotton wick can only feed so much liquid per second. If the e-liquid is too thick, or you chain puff, the wick falls behind and you get a dry, burnt hit.
• Sensitive to sweeteners: sugary liquids and some dessert flavours caramelise on a hot mesh and coat it. A clogged mesh tastes flat first, then burnt.
• Finite life: because the coil is integrated, you cannot clean or rebuild it. The pod is a wear item.

The 0.45 ohm dual mesh pod mentioned earlier works on the same principle. A dual mesh design generally uses a second mesh element to share the load at a slightly higher resistance, which suits people who want mesh flavour with a little less battery drain. The 0.3 ohm single mesh in this listing is the more aggressive of the two. Compared with ceramic coils, which are valued for steady heat and long life, mesh generally gives stronger flavour but is more affected by liquid choice. Neither is wrong; they suit different priorities.

Performance and Vapour Delivery

Replacement pods do not carry a puff rating the way disposables do, and we think that is the more honest approach. Printed puff counts on disposables are manufacturer estimates based on machine draws, and real-world numbers usually fall short of them. A refillable pod is better judged by how many millilitres it holds, how fast you use them and how long the coil lasts. We do not quote a puff count for this pod, and any figure you see elsewhere is an estimate.

As a working estimate rather than a rating, a pod holding 2ml typically delivers something in the region of 100 to 200 puffs of about three seconds each, depending on wattage and draw length. A 0.3 ohm mesh coil run at a healthy wattage sits toward the lower end of that range, because more liquid is turned to vapour with every pull. If you vape lightly across the day, one fill might last a day or a little longer. If you take long, frequent draws, you may be refilling twice a day.

What you get in return is vapour production clearly above what a 1.0 ohm pod gives. Expect dense, warm vapour, a quick response when you press the button or draw, and a smooth ramp rather than a slow build. The warmth is worth mentioning. Low-resistance coils run hot, and some people like the full, warm feel while others find it too much. If the device allows wattage adjustment, dropping the power by a few watts cools things noticeably.

The type of draw matters too. A 0.3 ohm mesh pod is generally drawn with a loose mouth-to-lung inhale, where you hold the vapour briefly in your mouth before breathing in, or a restricted direct-to-lung draw. If the E Plus has adjustable airflow, tighten it for more flavour and a cooler draw, or open it for bigger vapour. If the airflow is fixed, the pod and device together decide the feel, and it is worth giving yourself a day or two to adapt.

Consistency across the life of the pod is decent until near the end. The usual sign that a mesh coil is finishing is gradual: flavour thins, then a faint burnt note appears on the first puff after a rest, then eventually the harshness stays even with a fresh fill. Treat that as the cue to swap in a new pod rather than push through.

It also helps to be realistic about throat hit. A low-resistance coil makes more vapour per puff, and the throat hit comes from both the nicotine and the volume of vapour, so a strength that feels mild in a small pod can feel strong here. We deal with that properly in the nicotine section.

Flavour Profile and What to Fill It With

A pod has no flavour of its own. Everything you taste comes from the e-liquid, and the coil's job is to deliver it faithfully. A 0.3 ohm mesh delivers broadly: the large heating surface vaporises a wide cross-section of the liquid's flavour compounds rather than favouring the volatile top notes, which is why mesh pods are associated with rounder, fuller flavour than a basic wire coil.

That has some practical implications for what you pour in.

• Fruit and fruit blends: berry, citrus, stone fruit and tropical mixes come through clearly, with sweetness sitting alongside acidity rather than swamping it. These are the safest all-round choice for a first fill.
• Menthol and ice: the warmth of a low-resistance coil softens the cooling effect a little. If you rely on a sharp, icy finish, choose a liquid with a stronger menthol character, or lower the wattage so the vapour arrives cooler.
• Desserts, custards and creams: these have rich flavour on mesh but also leave the most residue. Expect the coil to age sooner, and expect to need fresh pods more often if you stay on them.
• Tobacco and nutty profiles: these work well because broad vaporisation brings out the deeper notes, though they can taste dry if the wattage is too high.

Flavour changes during the life of the pod. The first fill tastes the cleanest because the cotton is new and the mesh is clean. After a few days the coil carries the residue of what you have been vaping. If you swap from a strong flavour such as menthol to something delicate like melon, expect ghosting, where the old flavour lingers. The clean way to change flavour is to start with a new pod. Swapping inside one pod is possible but tends to give muddy results, so we would only do it if the earlier liquid was mild.

E-liquid base matters as much as flavour. Mesh coils like thinner liquids. A 50/50 propylene glycol to vegetable glycerine ratio, or something close to it, wicks quickly and carries more flavour. A liquid at 70VG or above is thicker, carries less flavour per puff and can starve a 0.3 ohm coil of liquid. Nicotine salt liquids are commonly 50/50, which suits this pod. Sweetener content matters as well: if a liquid tastes intensely sweet in the bottle, it will probably coat the mesh quickly.

Finally, keep the expectation realistic. Mesh gives a fuller flavour than many alternatives, but it does not turn a bland liquid into a rich one. Choose a liquid you already enjoy, and treat the pod as the delivery system rather than the source of the taste.

Design and Build Quality

This is a small plastic part, and judging its build means looking at the details that decide whether it leaks, fits and fires cleanly. Here is what to check when the pod arrives.

• Body: pods in this class are moulded plastic, often clear or lightly tinted so you can see the liquid level. Look for hairline cracks, especially near the fill port and around the mouthpiece. A cracked pod should not be used.
• Seals: there should be a silicone bung or cap over the fill port and a snug seal around the coil housing. Press the bung gently to confirm it is fully seated before filling.
• Airflow path: look through the base and the mouthpiece. The central chimney should be clear and the intake slots unblocked. A visibly misaligned pod should be reported rather than used.
• Contacts: the metal pins or pads on the base carry power to the coil. They should be clean, dry and free from residue. Never wipe them with anything wet.
• Protective packaging: remove any film, cap or tape from the mouthpiece and base before use. Forgetting a seal is a surprisingly common cause of no vapour.

Fit matters. A pod should seat in the device with a firm, even click or magnetic hold, depending on the model, without forcing. If it needs force, stop, take it out and check it is the right way round and the right pod for the device.

The mouthpiece is part of the pod, so the surface that touches your lips is replaced every time you change pods. That is a small hygiene advantage over a tank, where the drip tip stays in use for months.

A visible liquid level helps too. A transparent window lets you refill before the wick dries out. Run the pod down to a low level but not to empty, because firing the coil on dry cotton is the most common way to ruin a mesh coil early.

We make no claims about premium materials or special finishes, because there is nothing on the pack to back them up. In sensible terms: it should be well moulded, cleanly assembled and properly sealed, and it should do its job. If a pod arrives damaged or does not fit, that is a fault and not a quirk, and you should contact us.

Storage affects durability as well. Keep pods upright, in a cool place out of direct sun, and never in a hot car, where heat thins the liquid and can push it out through the airflow channels.

Battery, Wattage and Charging

The pod has no battery. Battery capacity is a property of the Lost Vape E Plus device, and we do not quote a milliamp-hour figure here because it belongs to the hardware and not to this part. What the pod does decide is how hard that battery has to work, and that is where 0.3 ohm matters.

A lower-resistance coil draws more current at any given voltage, and mesh coils at this resistance are meant to be driven at higher power than a standard pod coil. Higher power uses energy faster. As a rule, moving from a 0.8 ohm or 1.0 ohm pod to this one means charging more often. If you are used to charging every second day, expect to charge daily, and possibly top up during the day if you vape heavily.

For perspective, here is an illustration only, not a specification for any particular device. A single-cell battery of 1,000mAh at a nominal 3.7V holds about 3.7 watt-hours. At 25W output, that is around nine minutes of total firing time before conversion losses. Taken as three-second puffs and trimmed for losses, that works out at roughly 150 puffs. A larger battery stretches that in proportion, and a lower wattage stretches it further. The point of the illustration is to show how quickly power adds up at low resistance, not to promise a number.

Sensible charging habits:

• Use the cable supplied with the device, or a good-quality cable of the right type, with a standard phone-style USB adaptor of the output the manufacturer specifies. Avoid unbranded chargers of unknown output.
• Charge on a hard, non-flammable surface where you can see it. Do not leave it charging unattended overnight, and never charge under pillows or on soft furnishings.
• Unplug when the device indicates it is full, and avoid running it flat as a habit.
• If the device gets unusually hot, smells strange, swells or is physically damaged, stop using it and do not charge it.
• Do not carry spare pods and a loose battery together with coins or keys in a pocket.

Wattage settings, if the E Plus offers them, are the other half of battery life. Every few watts you drop saves a noticeable amount of energy, and at 0.3 ohm the difference between a comfortable setting and a high one can be the difference between lasting an evening and needing a charge by mid-afternoon.

When the battery eventually reaches the end of its life, it should never go into household waste. Under UK waste electrical rules, shops that sell electrical items are expected to offer take-back, many vape shops do so for used devices and batteries, and household waste recycling centres accept them. The Recycle Your Electricals website has a postcode search for your nearest drop-off point.

Choosing Your Nicotine Strength

Nicotine strength is the single biggest decision with this pod, and the one where newcomers most often go wrong. The UK limit is 20mg/ml (2%) for nicotine e-liquid and for the nicotine content of vape products sold here, which is the same ceiling that applied to the disposables sold before the single-use ban took effect in June 2025. That figure is a ceiling, not a recommendation, and a 0.3 ohm mesh pod is the type of setup where the ceiling is rarely the right choice.

Here is the reasoning. Nicotine delivery depends on how much liquid is vaporised and how much nicotine it contains. A 0.3 ohm mesh coil at working power produces more vapour per puff than a 1.0 ohm pod. Put 20mg/ml nicotine salt in it and each puff carries far more nicotine than the same strength in a small coil, and the throat hit turns harsh very quickly. Adults who move from a 20mg disposable to a low-resistance mesh pod with the same strength liquid often describe the change as overwhelming.

As a practical starting guide, with typical working power:

• Nicotine salt, 5mg/ml to 10mg/ml: the usual starting range for this pod. Smooth, with a noticeable but comfortable throat hit. If you are an adult moving away from cigarettes and want a satisfying effect, 10mg/ml is the common place to begin.
• Nicotine salt, 12mg/ml to 15mg/ml: for heavier smokers who find 10mg/ml unsatisfying. Keep the wattage on the low side of the range and use shorter puffs to keep the throat hit manageable.
• Nicotine salt, 20mg/ml: generally a poor fit for this pod unless you take very short, gentle puffs. That strength suits tight, low-power pods much better.
• Freebase nicotine, 3mg/ml to 6mg/ml: works in bigger-vapour setups. Freebase has a sharper throat hit than salts at the same strength, so the figures are lower. Many freebase liquids are high in VG and therefore thick for mesh, so choose a thinner blend.
• 0mg/ml: nicotine-free liquid, for adults who already vape and want flavour without nicotine.

Signs your strength is too high: a harsh, scratchy throat, a rapid head rush or light-headedness, a slightly sick feeling after a few puffs, or needing to put the device down after only a few draws. Signs it is too low: you take lots of extra puffs, you feel restless soon after a session, and you drift into chain vaping. Adjust in steps of a few mg/ml rather than jumping around.

Nicotine is addictive, and e-liquid containing it should be stored away from children and pets. If you have a health condition or are pregnant, speak to a pharmacist or doctor before using nicotine products. We cannot advise on health matters, and nothing on this page is a health claim about vaping.

Who These Pods Suit and Who Should Look Elsewhere

Pod choice is about fit. This one suits some adults very well and others not at all, and it saves everyone time to say so plainly.

It tends to suit you if:

• You already own a Lost Vape E Plus device and need a replacement for a finished pod. This is the straightforward use.
• You like a warm, dense draw with clear flavour, and you have found tight, cigarette-like pods thin.
• You are comfortable filling a pod from a bottle and prefer buying e-liquid separately, which usually works out cheaper per day than sealed prefilled pods.
• You are an adult who has found 20mg disposables harsh and wants a smoother experience at a lower strength.
• You are happy to charge the device regularly.

It tends not to suit you if:

• You want a tight, restricted draw like a cigarette. A 0.8 ohm to 1.2 ohm pod is closer to that feel, and it will give you more battery life as well.
• You want a low-maintenance setup. Refillable pods need filling, priming and keeping upright. Sealed prefilled pods are simpler if you do not want any of that.
• You need to go several days without charging. This resistance works the battery harder.
• You plan to use only 20mg/ml nicotine salts. They tend not to sit comfortably with this coil.
• You do not own the E Plus device. The pod will not work without it and may not fit anything else.
• You are under 18, or you do not currently use nicotine. Vaping products are not for you.

Between those two lists sits a large group of existing vapers who simply want their usual pod again, and for them the question is just whether to buy now or later. Pods are inexpensive enough that keeping a spare in a drawer is sensible. It avoids the situation where a coil fails on a Friday evening and the next delivery is days away.

If you are not sure which camp you fall into, start with the question of draw style. Adults who prefer a tight inhale usually do better with higher-resistance pods, while those who like a looser, warmer draw tend to settle into 0.3 ohm mesh quickly. Neither preference is more correct than the other, and plenty of people keep one of each for different situations.

How to Fill, Prime and Use the Pod

The steps below assume your pod arrives empty and is filled through a port on the pod, which is the usual arrangement for replacement pods with an integrated coil. If your pack says the pod is pre-filled, skip the filling step and go straight to priming.

• Step 1, inspect. Check the pod for cracks, remove all packaging and confirm the resistance reads 0.3 ohm.
• Step 2, fill. Remove the fill port bung and fill with e-liquid, aiming the bottle tip at the side wall rather than the central chimney so you do not flood the airflow. Stop at the fill line, or just below the top if there is no line. Never overfill. Press the bung back in until it sits flush and wipe away any drips with a dry tissue.
• Step 3, prime. Stand the pod upright for five to ten minutes, longer for thicker liquid. This lets the cotton soak through. Priming is the single most important step for coil life.
• Step 4, fit. Insert the pod gently into the device until it seats.
• Step 5, start low. If the device allows adjustment, set it towards the bottom of the recommended range and take a few gentle puffs. Move upwards slowly until the flavour is right and the vapour is warm and not hot.
• Step 6, pace yourself. Take puffs of two to three seconds and leave a few seconds between them. Chain puffing outpaces the wick and is the usual cause of a burnt taste.
• Step 7, top up early. Refill when the level drops to the lower third, not when the pod is empty.

Between sessions, keep the device upright where possible. If you are travelling, avoid leaving it in a bag fully filled and warm. Changes in pressure and temperature can push liquid through the airflow, which is why pods sometimes leak on flights. If your journey involves a flight, fill the pod to around two-thirds.

Wipe the mouthpiece with a dry cloth every so often. Do not wash the pod under a tap, because water in the airflow path or on the contacts causes problems.

A short word on pacing across the day. People who have moved from disposables often vape more frequently at first because the lower nicotine strength feels lighter. That is normal, but it also means you will get through liquid and battery faster than expected for the first week or two. Keeping a small bottle and a charger with you removes most of the frustration.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Most pod problems come down to priming, power or overfilling. Work through the list below before assuming the pod is faulty.

• Burnt or acrid taste: the usual causes are an under-primed wick, power set too high, or a coil near the end of its life. Re-prime, lower the wattage and pace your puffs. If the burnt note returns on a fresh fill, replace the pod.
• Gurgling or crackling: excess liquid in the airflow. Turn the device so the mouthpiece faces down, blow gently through it away from your mouth and dab the mouthpiece with tissue. Do not fill as high next time.
• Leaking from the base: overfilling, a poorly seated bung, a cracked pod or a pressure change. Empty it, check the pod and reseat the bung. If it still leaks with a correctly filled pod, treat it as faulty.
• Weak flavour: the mesh may be coated, which is common with sweet liquids and aged coils. Also check the liquid is not too thick for a 0.3 ohm coil.
• No vapour: check the pod is fully seated, the protective film has gone, the contacts are clean and dry, the pod is not empty and the device is charged and unlocked.
• Dry, hot, harsh hit with little vapour: stop immediately. The wick is dry. Refill, prime again and lower the power.
• Device shows a pod or atomiser error: take the pod out, wipe the contacts with a dry cloth and reseat it. If the error persists, try another pod to find out whether the fault is in the pod or the device.
• Sticky residue on the mouthpiece: normal with sweet liquids. Wipe with a dry cloth.

When to replace the pod. Coil life varies with liquid, power and habits, but for regular use a 0.3 ohm mesh pod commonly lasts somewhere between one and three weeks. Dessert liquids and high wattage shorten that. Replace the pod when flavour has faded, when the burnt taste appears even after priming, or when it leaks despite correct filling. Continuing to use a finished coil only gives a poor experience and wastes liquid.

Disposal and recycling. Used pods contain e-liquid residue, and the batteries in vape devices are a genuine fire risk in bin lorries and recycling plants. Do not put devices or batteries in household bins or kerbside recycling. Take devices and batteries to a retailer offering take-back or to your household waste recycling centre, and use the Recycle Your Electricals postcode search to find your nearest drop-off point. Rules for battery-free pods vary between councils, so if you are unsure, ask the retailer or your local council. Never burn or puncture pods.

Value for Money and Honest Comparisons

At £7.95, this pod costs more than a basic generic pod and less than some of the larger systems. Whether that is good value depends on how long it lasts and what the alternatives cost.

Try a rough running-cost sum. Say a pod lasts ten days with moderate use, which sits within the one to three week range described earlier. £7.95 over ten days is about 80p a day. Say you use around 2ml of liquid a day, and a 10ml nic salt bottle from around £2.95 in our range lasts five days, which is about 59p a day. That puts the total at roughly £1.39 a day, or just under £10 a week. These are illustrations and your figures will differ. Heavier use at higher power pushes liquid cost up and coil life down, while gentle use pulls both the other way.

Compared with sealed prefilled pods, the economics differ. A prefilled pod such as the Lost Mary BM6000 at £6.95 in our range includes the liquid, but when the liquid is used you replace the entire pod. A refillable pod spreads its cost across many fills. If you want zero preparation, prefilled wins on convenience. If you want lower running costs and a choice of liquids, refillable wins.

Honest comparisons within the wider market:

• Lost Vape Ursa V3 replacement pods (£8.95 in our range): a different system from the E Plus. You choose between them according to which device you own, not on pod performance.
• Vaporesso XROS pods: widely stocked and offered in several resistances, including low options. If you own an XROS device these are the natural choice. Against a 0.3 ohm E Plus pod the experience is comparable, with differences coming from airflow design and liquid.
• Uwell Caliburn pods: mainstream pods in this family tend to sit at higher resistances and suit a tighter draw with gentler battery use. They are a better match for restricted mouth-to-lung fans than a 0.3 ohm pod.
• Smok Novo pods: a broad range of resistances including mesh options. Similar class to the E Plus when matched for resistance.
• Voopoo Vmate and Vinci style pods: also offer mesh coil options, with the choice mostly coming down to which hardware you prefer.

The fair conclusion is that the E Plus pod does not have a dramatic performance edge over comparable mesh pods from other brands at similar resistance. Coil resistance, wattage and liquid choice matter more than the logo on the pod. The reason to buy this one is simple: you own the device and want it to keep working. If that is you, replacement pods are almost always cheaper than buying a new kit.

One buying note. Offers and multibuys change, so check the product page for any current deals rather than relying on this guide. We deliver across the UK, with free delivery on orders over £20, and orders placed before 4pm are dispatched promptly. Every product we sell is 100% genuine. Strictly 18+.